Runway inclusivity: luxury brands face a size gap between catwalk and commerce
Luxuryfashion shows have showcased plus-size models, but the reality for consumers remains a stark contrast. While visibility on the runway has increased, the availability of larger sizes in stores lags significantly behind.
The disconnect: runway representation vs. real-world sizing
Recently, brands like Balenciaga and Givenchy featured mid and plus-size models in their collections. These moments signal a potential shift toward greater inclusivity but also highlight a persistent problem: the gap between what's presented on the runway and what's available for purchase.
A Vogue Business survey revealed a troubling truth: nearly half of consumers feel pressure to lose weight to feel fashionable, with sizing challenges being a primary driver of this pressure. This is especially true for those shopping at higher-end labels.
The data paints a clear picture: in Fall/Winter 2026 shows, 97.6% of looks were straight-size, compared to just 2.1% mid-size and 0.3% plus-size. This is a slight decrease from the previous season, but the numbers remain deeply concerning.
While designers are experimenting with adjustable garments and collaborations to improve fit, the core issue lies in production. Expanding size ranges requires significant investment in pattern-making, sampling, and inventory planning.
Influencer Remi Bader, who advocates for body positivity and realistic sizing, points to a critical issue. “You can’t celebrate diverse bodies on the runway and then not make the clothes for them. That doesn’t make sense to me,” she says. The loyalty of plus-size consumers is being tested by brands that prioritize visibility without a corresponding commitment to accessible sizing.
Mytheresa's chief buying officer, Tiffany Hsu, emphasizes that demand for extended sizes exists, but limited supply hinders sales. She notes that when brands provide adequate options and visibility, they see strong engagement across a wider size spectrum.
Collaborations offer a potential pathway to scale, but these require months of development to ensure proper grading and fit. The cost of developing and refitting garments for a wider range of sizes can be prohibitive for smaller brands.
Ester Manas, a Paris-based label known for its inclusive sizing, has seen a significant portion of its e-commerce customers opting for plus sizes. By prioritizing transparency and using real-life fit models, the brand has built a loyal following.
The industry needs to move beyond showcasing inclusivity and address the operational and creative shifts necessary to offer a truly representative range of sizes. It’s a long process, but the shift is happening.