De sarno dives into craftsmanship, rejecting fashion's frenzy
Sabato De Sarno, the former creative director of Gucci, is trading the relentless glare of the runway for a more contemplative approach, unveiling ‘Insieme’ at this year’s Salone del Mobile.
A calculated exit, not a crisis
After a brief, somewhat controversial 19-month tenure at Gucci, De Sarno’s career trajectory has taken an unexpected turn. He's not rushing back; instead, he’s immersing himself in the rich traditions of Italian craftsmanship, a deliberate rejection of the industry’s current, hyper-fast pace.
Relief, not emptiness: a rediscovered time
“To be honest, after Gucci I never felt a sense of emptiness,” De Sarno admitted. “For nearly 23 years, I had done nothing but work, so I actually rediscovered time. There was no void, as I immersed myself in a wide range of projects.” He described the initial feeling as a profound relief, a welcome respite from the demanding pressures of high Fashion.
Beyond the runway: a human connection
His post-Gucci endeavors have been remarkably diverse, ranging from collaborating with the artist JR on a striking mural featuring local artisans to curating a book celebrating the artistic heritage of Naples. These projects, he emphasizes, are driven by a desire to connect with people and to elevate voices often overlooked.
The ‘death’ of ready-to-wear?
While De Sarno recently stated that ready-to-wear is “dead,” he clarifies that his comments stem from a disillusionment with the industry’s current obsession with superficial trends. “The work behind the final product, the refusal to stay on the surface, the importance of knowledge, and the collective effort of many people – these have always been central to my practice,” he explained. “So this isn’t a political stance; it’s simply the way I’ve always approached my work.”
A shift in focus: craftsmanship as a core value
‘Insieme’ exemplifies this renewed commitment. The exhibition, in collaboration with Vanity Fair Italia, spotlights 12 Italian artisanal companies, presenting handcrafted objects alongside portraits of the artisans themselves – a powerful manifesto displayed on the Piscina Cozzi façade. It's a conscious effort to shift the narrative away from fleeting trends and towards the enduring value of skill and dedication.
Navigating the noise: criticism and the price of authenticity
De Sarno acknowledges the criticism he’s faced on social media, describing it as “a brutal criticism,” but insists he’s learned to filter out the noise. “Anyone can comment, so there are constructive critiques, which can help you see things differently,” he said. “But there are also people who use social media simply to spread hate.” He stresses the importance of distinguishing between genuine criticism and malicious attacks.
Looking ahead: a pursuit of shared vision
Despite the challenges, De Sarno remains optimistic about the future. He’s not actively seeking a return to a major Fashion house, but rather desires to find a project—a team—where he can contribute to something he truly believes in. “I’m looking for the right place for me,” he concluded, “a place defined by people.”