Martens balances margiela, diesel – and a terrier's charm
Glenn Martens, the man somehow juggling creative director roles at both Maison Margiela and Diesel, isn’t just designing clothes; he’s orchestrating a subtle cultural shift within the fashion landscape. In a rare moment carved out during Paris Fashion Week, Martens granted The Run-Through an audience at Margiela’s headquarters, offering a glimpse into the meticulous process behind his fall 2026 collection – a collection now being unveiled in a series of unprecedented exhibitions across China.
A history unveiled: margiela’s codes in the east
The Shanghai presentation, a dual reveal of both ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections, wasn’t merely a runway show. It was the launchpad for four simultaneous exhibitions designed to introduce Margiela’s foundational principles to a Chinese audience. Think beyond fleeting trends; these exhibitions delve into the very DNA of the house, from the instantly recognizable “bianchetto” motif to the enduring philosophy of anonymity that has always defined Margiela's approach. The ambition is clear: to showcase a legacy of craftsmanship and conceptual design rarely seen outside Europe.
“We love clothes and craftsmanship and garments,” Martens stated, succinctly capturing the brand’s ethos. “We don’t want to focus on the person wearing it.” It’s a deliberate distancing, a refocusing on the artistry of the creation itself, a principle that has always set Margiela apart. But even the most rigorous creative process benefits from a little levity.
What nobody tells you about taking the helm of a fashion powerhouse? Apparently, the secret weapon can be as simple as a remarkably charming border terrier named Murphy. Martens recounts how Murphy’s arrival during his initial weeks on the job instantly eased tensions and fostered a sense of playful camaraderie. “Everybody was smiling, the doors opened, people were screaming, playing around,” he recalls, a testament to the power of a well-placed canine distraction. Murphy's contribution was so significant, he’s now been awarded a miniature lab coat - a fitting tribute to his role in uniting the studio.
Beyond the immediate collections and exhibitions, Martens’ vision remains grounded in a fundamental desire: to keep the process enjoyable. The pressure of leading two major fashion houses is undeniable, but his perspective is refreshingly straightforward. “At the end of the day… that’s the reason why we started fashion: because it brings joy.”