Vintage glamour returns: silk robes & opera coats reign on runways
Runways signaled a powerful resurgence of romance and opulence for spring/fall 2026, with a key trend emerging: the luxurious silk robe and the dramatic opera coat. From the streets to the runway, designers are embracing a yearning for handcrafted artistry and a touch of bygone eras.
A nod to the past: robes and coats take center stage
The return of the robe isn't simply a fleeting trend; it reflects a deeper desire for tangible beauty and a connection to history. Designers like Conner Ives are leading the charge, crafting pieces that blend vintage inspiration with contemporary sensibilities. Ives’ fall 2026 collection featured a silk floral coat made from repurposed vintage fur and Qing Dynasty tapestries— a commitment to craftsmanship that resonates with consumers seeking unique, meaningful pieces. “There’s something powerful about giving these discarded pieces a second life—they carry memory and energy,” Ives told Vogue.
The trend isn't limited to Ives; London-based designer Viktor Gichev, known for his antique-inspired designs, also embraces this aesthetic. He curates a collection of vintage dresses, furs, and accessories, often incorporating elements like floral embroidery and opulent tapestries. Gichev’s approach is deliberately unstudied, aiming for a look that feels “effortlessly messy, personal, undone.”
The opera coat, a dramatic silhouette with roots in early 20th-century fashion, is experiencing a similar revival. Chanel, Marni, and Rabanne all featured variations of the garment, often paired with dropped waists reminiscent of the Art Deco era. The silhouette has also found favor with celebrities like Alexa Chung, Zoë Kravitz, and Kate Moss, solidifying its status as a must-have piece.
Comfort meets couture: styling the modern robe
The appeal lies in the robe's versatility. It transitions seamlessly from lounging at home to making a statement on the streets. Anna Carells, whose brand Carelli launched in 2025, has seen strong pre-order interest in her 'Rosa' jacket – a furry lapel coat with a softly sculpted silhouette.